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Adalberto Alvarez y su Son - Casa de la Musica, Havana, May 2000

After a week in Havana which included seeing a variety of entertaining-enough music at smaller venues, we were due to leave for Santiago del Cuba, and hence it was time for a real night out. We selected the Casa de la Musica, one of Havana's top venues for our trip. In the relatively affluent Playa area of Havana, this dedicated music venue has daily afternoon and evening live concerts, as well as being one of the best sites we found to buy CDs, with a smattering of musical instruments too.

We went for the evening session, and arrived at 11 pm. Things were pretty quiet still, with fairly standard salsa CDs playing over the PA. Gradually, people were beginning to dance, so while it was quiet we took our chance for a bit of a warm up. Notable was a very Havanna style of salsa, which was very different to anything I've seen in Sheffield or indeed elsewhere in Cuba. Couples danced a series of quite complex turns without any real break or pause, but with an incredibly smooth style. Each move flowed into the next in a seamless fashion, and feet seemed to glide close to the floor, almost giving a 'moonwalking' style at times. All this was very different from the vigour and attack that seemed to be prevalent in Santiago. We stuck pretty much to Sheffield style!

Gradually, the place filled up. The majority of the venue was filled with tables surrounded by four chairs, and by half past mid-night, the majority of these were full. Time for the support band! Sadly, they turned out to be a Cuban rap band whose name escapes me. I had heard one of the numbers round and about in Havana, so apparently they are reasonably popular, but though it was well performed/choreographed/danced if you like that sort of thing, it's really not my cup of tea. Shortly after their set, I went to the gents' and was asked by a Cuban what I thought of them. I gave an underwhelming reply along the lines above and was embarrassed to discover the chap asking my opinion was their producer. Embarrassing, but honest...

After time to replenish the beer supplies, it was time for the headline band. There was no mood to rush through things, but by 2 am I suppose it is time to be making a start.

Adalberto is a large gent, with medallions and a sharp suit. Backed by a huge band that left out none of the preferred elements of a salsa band intending to ensure people got to their feet, he sweated and sang his way though a long set. The audience responded to the invitation to dance, and very soon the dance floor itself was full, so people made do with the space between tables and chairs. Perhaps a little surprisingly, this apparently hazardous activity led to no mishaps that I noticed, and everyone remained good natured. Musically, it was great dance music, played slickly by a tight band. If I were to criticise, it would be that it was rather one pace/one volume, so whilst musically very competent it was limited. Hang on, though; why were we there? We were there to dance, and this was certainly music for dancing.

Rod Lawson

 

 
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